Wednesday, September 06, 2006

Marangu at the foot of Kilimanjaro

We spent two nights here in Marangu, waiting for Kili to show her face. Here are some pictures of my cultural tour through the town. I had a go at the strenuous pounding of corn after it was dried (see pic of corn drying on a roof), walked through the farms, and ended with a lunch of local food (spinach, plantains, rice, oranges, and banana beer).





Zanzibar


My week in Zanzibar involved sunsets in Stone Town, walks through the Stone Town streets, a visit to the slave site (see pic of statue), a tour through a spice farm (pic of me holding my basket of spices and wearing "lipstick" spice), and time on the ocean. A gorgeous place and fantastic vegetarian curries. I will always remember snorkeling off northern Zanzibar as one of the scariest and liberating experiences of my trip.




Friday, August 25, 2006

Life on the Beach

This is an updated post, so if you read it once, there's a good chance this is different.

Hi everyone,

Well, this is my last post while I am on my trip. I'll update it with photos later and let you all know when they are posted. For now, here's an update.

I'm on the hot, sunny beach in Kendwa, Zanzibar. I've never taken a beach holiday, and this has all the fixings: turqouise sea, sand in every crevice, tropical drinks, massive amounts of sunblock, and gorgeous weather.

So, here's what's been happening:

Day 12: travel from Arusha to Marangu, near the base of Kilimanjaro
Day 13: cultural tour through Marangu villages and agricultural areas
Day 14: travel from Marangu to Leshoto
Day 15: travel from Leshoto to Dar Es Salaam
Day 16: travel to Stone Town, Zanzibar
Day 17: travel from Stone Town to Kendwa Rocks, taking a Spice Tour on the way
Day 18: beach and first attempt at snorkeling
Day 19: full day snorkel adventure

Well, here I am on Day 19 of my overland trip. The past week has been fantastic. Our group is now down to four people, as Lynda and Rachel went back to the UK. The four of us and our three crew (how backwards is this!) enjoyed a good two days basking in the peak of Kili, when she decided to show her face. I didn't hike to base camp, but I took a cultural tour, which was just as exciting.

The cultural tour gave us a view of Chagga traditional/modern life. Our guide first took us through the forest, where they grow coffee, sweet bananas, plantains, and herbs. We walked through both traditional and modern houses, which were quite small and a bit caustrophobic. They keep their cow inside and locked up so they don't tramp through the coffee trees. I touched the soft skin of the cow's head, and I felt so sad. A vegan moment.

Our cultural tour then went through the market and then down to the waterfall. We took two local taxis, and I was amazed by how many people they cram into one minivan. This is an African thing, as I've seen people crammed in these vans in every country I've visited. That being said, I felt once again underdressed with the women in beautiful patterned dresses and hats.

Zanzibar is treating me well (i.e. no sunburn yet). When I wrote the parenthesis yesterday, I didn't realize the bit of a burn I received yesterday. Oops.

The first day in zanzibar we spent in Stone town. An interesting city full of different influences: Christian, Muslim, Indian. We tried to eat at the Freddy Mercury Restaurant, but they didn't have any food ready (lunch/dinner lull), so we ate at a gorgeous Indian restaurant. Then we watched the sun set from a hotel bar, just as a dhou (local wooden sailboat) passed in front of the sunset. thank you for the postcard, zanzibar!

Wednesday we went on a spice tour, which involved smelling and tasting zanzibar spices. Zanzibar made its name from two things: the slave trade and spices. First, we took a tour of the slave trade places and then up to spice country. we sat in one of the rooms where 75 women and children were kept for three days without food and water. An eerie experience.

then spices: ginger, cardamon, cinnamon, tumeric, lemongrass, vanilla. I'm sure there are others I can't remember.

then the beach: I went snorkeling yesterday, which wasn't so good (seasickand lots of jellysfish-the nonstinging variety), but today I took my seasick pills, and it was fantastic! The fish were bright and plentiful, and once I got the hang of breathing calmly, I was in the ocean for two hours. we saw so many fish, whose names I don't know. I do know we saw clown fish, zebra fish, cucumber fish, and lots of multi-colored ones (Kerry, don't tell Craig about my ignorance!). The coral proved my favorite thing. the colors. wow. I wish I had pictures.

Okay, time's running out. I'll talk to you all soon (scheduled to come home Thursday, the 31st, unless my flight can be changed to give me a few extra days on a stopover).

Lots of love,

Moe

Friday, August 18, 2006

Kisii to Arusha, Tanzania

Hello everyone,

This blog might be a bit smaller than the others. At the end of my trip when I get home, I will post my photos. It's just easier and safer to not carry my camera around town. So, for now, words...

Here's where I've been since last time:

Day 8: drive from Kisii, Kenya across the border to Lamadi, Tanzania on Lake Victoria.
Day 9: enter the Serengeti on the west side and drive through to Seronera campsite in park.
Day 10: game drive through Serengeti, visit Olduvai Gorge Museum, camp just outside Ngorongoro Crater
Day 11: game drive through Ngorongoro Crater, then drive through to Maserani Snake Park.
Day 12: drive from Maserani to Arusha and then on to Kilimanjaro tonight!

Animal Totals:

1 leopard
no more cheetahs or rhinos...
36 lions (3 cubs in the Crater)
15 elephants or so
and hundreds/thousands of all the rest!!!

Okay, any minute now the truck is leaving, so what can I tell you but fabulous things!

The Serengeti kept our animal tracking eyes busy. We finally saw a leopard (along with 6 other trucks) and watched it cross the plains, under a truck, and up a tree. I can't tell you how many pictures I took, but not as many as the lions. The landscape of the Serengeti appealed to me--long rolling hills of green-gold grass.

The number of lions we've seen has become quite ridiculous, really! 36. The Ngorongoro Crater proved the most fruitful, as we saw three cubs. It was a bit of an entertaining circus. There were about 14 jeep/land rovers watching about 8 adult lions, then the 3 cubs get up and decide to go explore, so they park themselves under one of the trucks. Then the dad and mom get up and decide to eye all the trucks and get closer to their cubs, parking themselve right next to the tires. When they finally decided to move, they came over to our truck and laid down right on our wheels. Just looking down at them was inspiring and intimidating. The cubs soften your heart, but the adults make you take cover.

When we slept in the Serengeti, there were no fences. Just us and nature. Actually, there were lots of people in the campground, maybe 60-100, and quite a few trucks. Yet, we were told to go to the bathroom in groups at all times, as lions do come to the campsite. Needless to say, we didn't get out of our tents in the middle of the night. When I woke up at 5am, I could hear the lions roaring and tracing the camp, and the hyenas crying. What a cool feeling, if not a bit scary. No worries, it was all safe!

Now we are in Arusha, heading towards Kilimanjaro. The truck just pulled up, so I am off. Sorry so short this time. Just now that the pics are fabulous!

See you all soon!

Love,

Moe/Msungu!