Fantasy, History, and War (plus food and a beach)

As usual, I have two days to catch up on, as I didn’t have the energy last night. Not sure how I’m going to muster up the energy tonight either, but I will! Then, I’ll have to regurgitate it all in my journal as I haven’t done either for two days. Oh, the difficulties of travel! J

Day 4 (Tuesday) we started off yet another bright blue sky day in Dubrovnik with a Game of Thrones walking tour. There are several on offer from multiple companies, so that tells you how popular a ‘thing’ it is. Claire came along for the tour, though she hasn’t read or watched, due to the promise that the guide would talk about Dubrovnik history at the same time.

Most of you know that I’m a fan of book/film/TV pilgrimages, send Claire and I have done a few together: Lyme Hall (where Colin Firth jumped in a lake in 1995), Prince Edward Island for Anne of Green Gables, Karen Blixen’s house north of Copenhagen (independently, we’ve both been to Blixen’s home in Nairobi). So now, Game of Thrones. I have to say, the tour was fantastic: interesting stories about filming, engaging guide, photos from the show to coincide, and lots of Dubrovnik history.

I won’t bore the non-readers/watchers with a blow by blow / scene by scene account (you can see photos on Facebook) but a few tidbits. The guide pointed out that last season (5) they filmed 10 days or so in Dubrovnik, but when they start shooting next season in Sep/Oct, they have only scheduled 3 days. The guide thinks this tells us something about the focus for next season… Another interesting fact, when they shot the ‘shame’ scene for the finale, they had to close down a street for three days, which meant closing down several restaurants and compensating temp. This is a busy city, so it mustn’t have been cheap!

One of my favorite parts of the tour was the fortress where many scenes were filmed. Its across the way com Old Town and gives an excellent view of the city. It also has its own interesting history with the Dubrovnik republic’s history with/against Venice. The usually canons, thick walls, and only 12 men to hold it (21) if really needed extra manpower.

One of the funniest bits was when the guide took us up a hill where a certain wedding took a place. “I know what you’re going to ask me,” he said, walking to a patch of ground scattered with dog poop. “This is where the little bastard died.” There were chuckles from the crowd. “And look, there is dog poop send the grass is actually green here, so nature must have liked that death.” It wasn’t a real person’ death we were talking about, so only a bit morbid...

The tour ended as all kitschy ones do: with a photo op. A chance to sit on the iron throne ad brandish your sword. Neither Claire nor I seem intimidating in our photos, so we’ll just have to follow someone else on their quest for it.

After a rewarding tour, we stuffed some salads in our faces, then went off to book our next day’s adventure to Montero: a new country for both of us. We came home, relaxed, and went out to the War Photo Museum. This was a provocative set of exhibits about war, particularly the current crisis in Ukraine (the current exhibit) and images com Dubrovnik during the war and siege. Powerful images and videos that bring the bustle of the current city into sharp contrast. You look into the mountains right above the city and think of the empty Old Town and how the streets were life-threatening from those above. Having just read Lynsey Addario’s autobiography, “It’s What I Do: a Photographer’s Life of Love and War” this exhibit really interested me. It is a type of photography that doesn’t interest me in terms of my own work, but I am interested in the stories the photographs tell and the photographer’s bravery in getting them.

Then, wouldn’t you know it was time to go out and eat again. An interesting thing to do after seeing images of people lining up for food and fresh water. For dinner, it was Taj Majal, a misnamed restaurant with Bosnian cuisine. Claire’s food was definitely more Bosnian than my gazpacho and roasted veggies. Regardless, my food was excellent. We rambled up and down streets then called it an early night.  

Today/Day 5 (Wednesday), we had to leave at 7am to catch our tour to Montenegro. The streets were quiet and empty as city works cleared garbage and restaurants began to put out their tables and chairs. We waited a bit nervously for our bus, send finally it came.  We were a group of 13: Americans, Brits, French, Canadians, and Russians. The tour was all in English, which we certainly appreciated. The basic itinerary: cross the border into Montenegro, coffee break, tour of Kotor, free time, travel to Budva for lunch and beach time, quick stop at St Stephen’s Island, then a ferry across the fjord and back on the road home to Dubrovnik. 12 hours door to door.

It was a beautiful trip all day, the only interference being the 100F (38C) day. My lord was it hot, hot, hot. We had been contemplating a day trip into Bosnia and Mostor, but once we heard it was 40C yesterday, we crossed it off our list after today. Regardless, today proved a great adventure.

After picking up all the other people, we were on our way. Along the way, the driver and guide told us about the area, the war, and the buildings that were destroyed and not rebuilt: the factory that used to make yogurt he loved as a kid, the hotel overlooking the sea, the many houses along the way. Yet, despite these losses, there is a lot of building being done, which shows its growth and how much tourism also helps reinvigorate the city.

The border crossing we took was a quiet one the locals use, and it is perched on a cliff overlooking the sea. It must certainly be the most beautiful border crossings I’ve ever seen. Once we pass through ‘no man’s land’ between the two borders (the border is not yet ‘fixed’ between the two), we cross into Montenegro. Claire is not happy that I get a stamp to mark my next country, but she doesn’t.

We stop to take photos of two churches in the middle of the lake, then stop for a quick coffee with a gorgeous view. We pose, we sip, we stretch our legs. It’s a bit cramped in the mini van, and after two hours it’s a good break. Then, off we go to Kotor, the town with old town walls that climb up the mountain side.  A guide meats us outside the gates, and she gives us a great tour around the small walled city. Stories of merchants, squabbles, and war. It’s a gorgeous walled city with many different churches, restaurants vying for space, and a stunning photo op every two seconds. We even arrive just in time for a traditional dance in the main square!

After the brief tour, we are left to our own devices. Claire and I stroll around the different churches and narrow streets. The city walls literally climb the mountainside. Dubrovnik’s Old Town walls are 2km all around, whereas Kotor’s is 5km and steep. With only an hour and a half, we opted for an amble and a café stop. Claire enjoyed her ice cream, and I enjoyed my real lemonade. Soon, it was time to meander back up to our pick up point before heading to Budva.

As we made our way to Budva, the host began to feel more oppressive. The point of this stop is lunch, beach, and another walled city. With only less than two hours, all were an impossible feat. Food always comes first, and we dug in. As much as I wanted to see the walled city, I began to feel like I should just go sit on the beach for awhile first.

So, I meandered with Claire to the quieter beach our guide had recommended. It was quieter, but my lord it was hot. Even in the shade it was too hot. When I plugged in the Celsius to Fahrenheit conversion, I figured out it had been 100f sell day. I sat on the beach in the shade knowing that a swim would do me good, but too tired to put in the effort to change into my swim suit and coat my other uncovered body parts with sunblock. This type of heat is just too oppressive.

After only time for a 15 minute swim, Claire emerged and we headed back to the mini bus. The last stop was to the viewing of St Stephen’s island. In the 50s (I think), it was bought up by a private company, and now it’s a vacation destination for the rich who want privacy. For example, Prince Charles and Princess Diana spent their honeymoon here in 1982. The guide rattled off other names like Elizabeth Taylor, Bruce Willis, and Pamela Anderson. You can only visit the island if you are paying for accommodation or have a lunch/dinner reservation. With accommodation costing 1,000 Euro a night, I cent imagine what a meal costs. 

Finally, it was time to take the brief 10min ferry across the fjord and return to Dubrovnik. I tree to take as many photos of mountains, sea, and abandoned buildings as I could. Soon, we were walking like zombies back to our nice little flat and moaning as we plopped on the couch. We eventually plucked up the effort to shower, dress for dinner, walk down the three flights of stairs, and find a table at the restaurant literally right outside our door.

Dubrovnik, Days 1-3: A Feast for the Eyes

Claire and I arrived in Dubrovnik Saturday evening and watched it appear in all its glory from the plane. The old town surrounded by blue water and blue sky. It's hard not to get excited when you see it from this view. As we passed the city to land at the airport, I couldn't help but feel like urgent: we must get there fast! Luckily our taxi was prebooked, and he was waiting for us!

On the drive he talked about the war and how it affected him and those in the city. He pointed at the mountain to our left and said, 'That's Bosnia. They got the rocks, we got the coast. But many had to die for it.' That's what Dubrovnik feels like so far: a resilient city that still shows its scars. If you were in Italy across the sea, you might assume the remnant of a stone building was an ancient ruin. Here, you aren't sure if it's a ruin of war or just decay.

He dropped us off at Pile gate, and Ana met us to take us to our apartment for the week. She gave us her insider's knowledge and left us eager to explore. We have a cute tiny loft flat for the week right in old town. We shopped for groceries, ate a nice meal out, and collapsed for the night. Or rather Claire collapsed and I was jetlag wide awake. Until 4:30 in the morning.

Day 2 (Sunday) began with a later than expected start to get to the walls. When cruise ships dump for the day, up to 9,000 people can swarm the streets of old town, so everyone recommends starting the walls early to avoid the crowds. Though we started just after 10am, we were thrilled that the crowds didn't show up. We walked up the steps and started a fabulous two hour trek around the Old Town. The view change around every corner: sea, church, overgrown ruin, laundry on the line, mountains. Also around every corner is a little café offering shade from the scorching sun and a cool drink. I've walked castle walls before, but none compare to Dubrovnik. the walls give a birds eye view of what I love most: the perfect blend of rundown and rebuilt, blooming gardens and solid stone.

After two hours, we finished and needed a break from the sun, finding a lunch menu that suited both our tastes. We guzzled water, ate our salads, and rested in the cool shade of a quiet side lane. With no cars in Old Town, all the streets are narrow thoroughfares, like you'd find in most old European cities. We spent the afternoon resting, napping, and making a sketchy plan for the next few days. Then, it was time for dinner with a view.

Getting dolled up, we headed out the north gate (more stairs, they sighed, as they were still recovering from two hours of up-down-up-down walls) and to the cable car. If you're going to watch a sunset, first go high! Atop the mountain, we looked down on Dubrovnik and the Old Town, trying to find a way to take a photo without the cable car wires. There's a little restaurant at the top, aptly named "Panorama" to sit and watch the sunset. Alas, no view tables available, but we ate with a view of sky and the mountains into Bosnia.

After asking the waiter if the risotto had dairy, he assured me it didn't. We ordered appetizers, wine, and dinner, watching the sky melt from blue to a blush pink. We ate olives and salad, sipping our wine, and sighing into the relaxed vacation space. The risotto came with a tell-tale stringy cheese quality to it, and when my waiter assured me there was no cheese, another waiter confirmed there was. So, off went the risotto and out came the roasted rosemary potatoes instead. I really don't like to make a fuss, which is why I ask the questions, and I would have happily ordered roasted potatoes to enjoy the view. When I travel, I really don't expect to eat that interestingly, and that's fine with me. That being said, when they brought the potatoes out, they also brought out steamed spinach and garlic and said both were on the house. They both hit the spot, and I was full and content.

We paid our bill and rushed over to the other side of the cable car just in time to see a fabulous sunset over the islands north of the city. It reminded me of standing atop Table Mountain and looking down on the water and city. We shot a gazillion photos, then traveled down the car, taking in Old Town all lit up. A bief still and then back to collapse in the apartment. And gratefully, collapse I did.

Today (day 3) was beach day. Claire is a vacation beach gal through and through, just as I am a see/do gal, so beach we did. We headed off on the fairy to the island of Lapud, where the only sandy beach is in Dubrovnik (all the rest are rocky). A brief slow boat trip (no waves in the sea meant no seasickness for me!), and we docked in Lapud. A short walk through the boardwalk and up through a neighborhood, you encounter men with beach buggies and golf carts to take you to the beach a mile away. So you pay the 10k and off you go. I would have enjoyed the trip if our driver wasn't so rushed, got caught in a divest off the road, and then gunned it--the tire kicking up gravel and dirt all over me and my brand new camera. I had to shout for him to stop and notice. I was one furious woman at that moment. My. Brand new. Camera. Covered. In. Dirt. We got there, disembarked, and furiously cleaned off my camera. Photos seem okay, but focus wheel makes a dirty sound when its being used...

This is what travel is: s frustrating moment that is then followed by a great day. We sat on chairs under an umbrella all day. These kinds of beaches are new to me. I'm not used to being in shade and a comfy beach lounger. I can do this kind of beach vacation! My journal, a book, a great view. I took a few dips in the beautiful but clear water, watching the little fish swim near my toes. We watched people run from their shade to the water, kids screeching as the hot sand hit their feet. What a hot, hot day. But there was shade and blue sky and water. What can one say about a beach day, except aaaaahhhhh. Just why vacation is necessary.

At 4, we packed up and headed back to town (same golf buggy driver, if you can believe it), and we sat safely in the back. A brief stroll on the boardwalk, and we found a restaurant suitable for idyllic snack pre-ferry and read our books. Returned to Old Town on the ferry, heading straight home to wash up, doll up, and go out for vegan/veggie food.

Nishta restaurant is written up in guidebooks. Rick Steves straight out says its the most reliable food in town. When we arrived, all the outdoor tables were full, so we ate in the tiny, warm inside space. This meal was incredible. Let me just say this straight off the bat. I had a salad over a slice of flatbread that had a gorgeous dressing. Claire had their veggie samosas (fun fact: this auto correct keep wanting to say Samoans not Samosas). Then the main courses. I had a vegan pasta with tofu and veggies which was so flavorful I wanted to lick the plate. Claire had the veggie Indian dish, which she enjoyed. One has to do dessert when at a vegan restaurant, especially when traveling. we moved outside to an empty table, just in time to see that there were fireworks going off in the distance at the harbor. I had an almond panna cotta and Claire their chocolate mousse. Go to this restaurant.

 After dinner, our feet guided us right home. They should have guided me right to bed, but the blog must be done! I'm going to bed now. There is a Game of Thrones tour to be done tomorrow...

First Day

The First Day
Departures flood you with emotions: sadness at leaving loved ones for awhile, stress over getting everything on the to-do list done, worry that everything will be okay, and excitement for the adventures and friends that await. This trip everything seems heightened, and getting through security to the gate was even a stressful exercise in patience.

On board the plane, I am a kid in a candy shop: what movie can I watch? Should I watch two or try to get more sleep? For some entirely unknown reason, I've not brought any books or ebooks with me. So, the flight is a place for journaling and movie watching. I haven't been journaling much lately, but I'm dedicated to getting words down on this trip. It's very natural for me to write while traveling, the floodgates open as soon as I'm through security. This blog has always helped me access the immediacy of the experiences and the stories.

By the time we landed in Dublin, I was tired, and the five hour layover didn't entice me to go explore. Instead, I window shopped the stores, sought food, and logged on to the free wifi. This immediate access to communication has transformed the way I travel, and when I don't have wifi and access to searching out helpful info on the internet, I feel oddly disconnected.

Dublin has free wifi. Manchester gives you a free hour. It is strange, however, not to have the ability to call or text on my phone. I need to rely on email and Skype, which suits the slower travel pace.
After snoozing at the gate and on board the brief flight (5 hr layover for 35min flight), Claire whisks me off through Friday night traffic as people head to Wales. Today is a day for quick catch-ups and packing all our stuff into one bag. The strict carry on rules and expensive baggage fees have us working all our stuff into one bag. It's going to be hot in Dubrovnik, and at least our clothes take up less space.

What's loveliest: sitting in a room face to face with a dear friend in her home, drinking tea, eating good food, laughing, watching Wimbledon. I will be doing this many times over the next month, and I am already in awe of this contentment.

I've come to see this trip as a Harvest--a gathering of gratitude for friendships that began long ago and some more recent: 1993, 1994-1995, 1998, 2013. These friends I've met on three different continents, and over the years we've managed to stay connected. This trip isn't just about these wonderful friends but their families, too, as I spend time with their families of origin and now their own partners and children. Most wonderfully, it's about seeing them face to face and capturing these moments to hold on to until the next visit. I gather gratitude like I gather photographs: abundantly.

Day 2: on to Croatia!

Ireland...Croatia...England...Go!

Well, it's almost time for me to head to the airport and start my next big adventure. More stories and misadventures soon!

I have also finished a new website! Check it out at www.maureenewing.com

Talk to you on the other side of the ocean!

Maureen