It's a beautiful morning here in Puerto Rico, and before I go off to enjoy it, I thought I'd write about our Wednesday adventures.
I took the lessons of Tuesday at heart and settled into a morning of reading, journal writing, and watching the sea. Half way through the morning, a beautiful brown cat came to keep us company. He flirted with us for pets and then basked in the sunshine. His blue collar and bell indicate that he was a local cat, probably adept at visiting new guests. The sun was warm, and my pale skin drew in the vitamin D.
After lunch, we went on our daily excursion. This time a triple stop: the town of San German, the Cabo Rojo lighthouse and the sunset at El Combate beach. We drove to San German, and Google took me through Lajas again, which irritated me from the night before. So, we turned around and got on the right road and made it to San German.
An almost five hundred year old town, it has all the charm of an old chapel ruin and new-ish charm of the early 1900s architecture. Our first stop was the Museo de Puerto Cielo, where a very friendly museum director named Guido, took us around the museum, giving us little bits of history on the church and town. Rebuilt 50 years ago, it still has a ruin of the old chapel and the original old wood beams. As we were preparing to leave, he handed us two CDs of Puerto Rican music and his business card, saying to call if we have any trouble anywhere. So, off we went to the next square to admire the various architectures and colors. A cute old town definitely worth a casual meander.
Then, back in the car and back south to the far western peninsula of the Cabo Rojo reserve and lighthouse. The roads meandered through quiet countryside with a few small herds of cows and lots of trees. The guidebooks all caution about the terrible dirt road with potholes that leads to the lighthouse, but it was easily navigable and not so bad--not like the roads and potholes I remember in Kenya! The lighthouse sits atop beautiful cliffs and is a beautiful grey and white with bright green shutters--which seemed to me another reminder that the Puerto Ricans love color. We walked all around the lighthouse, soaking in the beautiful spot. It was Janvier's first lighthouse, so I was quite glad to share my passion for them with her.
After a good hour or less, we made our way back to the car and El Combate, a small little coastal town with small beach houses and bars, but most of it was closed up. I imagine next week will bring out all the holiday revelers. We found a spot on the beach and watched all the clouds roll towards our sunset. It was a beautiful spot to sit, and music wafted from the bars while we waited. While we couldn't see the golden orb sink beyond the water, we caught all the beautiful reflections off the layers of clouds. So while we didn't get the sunset we searched for, we still found beauty.
We made it home and cooked up our dinners, sinking into bed early and pleasantly exhausted. The only down side was being woken up this morning with a mosquito in my ear. We get ready for the day, which will include a hike along the beach, hoping to reach the mangroves this time.
Thursday, December 19, 2013
Wednesday, December 18, 2013
When Vacation is Both Doing and Doing Nothing
Vacation has a funny way of reminding us to slow down, that we don't have to do everything. I didn't remember this until after I had tried to do everything yesterday. This morning, I'm sitting here in the sun on the porch and staring at the ocean, reminding myself of what I didn't remember a day ago.
Yesterday we did little lounging and lots of hiking. We went to the Bosque Estatal de Guanica, the bio reserve about 15 minutes away for a few hikes. I love when a hike gives you a view as a reward. We first took the hour long hike to Mirador El Vigia, which took us along the beautiful wooded forest with an eclectic mix of trees. We could hear the geikos scurrying in the undergrowth as we walked, which kept us laughing at their startled behavior. The butterflies were everywhere, of all colors, and they never stood still long enough for us to capture them on film. Birds flew around and hawks above us. It was a hot day, but the breeze kept us cool. Then, we were at the Mirador and what a view. Nothing but hills covered in forests and a cloud dappled blue sky.
We walked back via the Camino Las Granadas, which gave us a nice path but no new view. Back at the car park, we strolled to the balcony with the ocean view. The turquoise seemed to call us, so off we drove to the seaside path. We traversed down a windy beach road that had us passing beach after beach, families and couples and school kids all out for the afternoon. We parked and strolled along the path to the mangroves. It was a beautiful stroll along the water, and we stopped again and again to take photos of the water, the vegetation, and the shore. Soon our stomachs told us that it was time to turn back. We never made it to the mangroves, but it was a beautiful hour long walk.
Back at the house, it was a late lunch full of good food and a little time for relaxation before jetting out to drive to see the sunset. If we would have listened to ourselves, we would have stayed here and rested. Alas, hindsight.
We drove the hour to Boqueron, watching the sun get lower and lower. The road took us through Lajas, causing us to miss the poorly posted turn. We traveled through town and country roads, arriving just as the sun was setting. I hurried the beach guard along, assuring him that I was happy to pay him $4.86 to park but could he please hurry up. It was one of my less calm moments! So, in we drove and instead of just paring and hopping out to catch it, I drove in search of the spot that seemed right, only to find ourselves at a dead end in an inlet where we couldn't see the sun setting. So, after a few "at least I'll get a shot or two of the sky" photos, we hopped in the car and drove the hour back home.
We settled into our exhausted bodies, ate dinner, and crashed early. For me, the day ended on the futon under the fan, yawning to Todd on the phone, and letting an Adam Sandler movie put me to sleep. Vacation, sometimes you need to give in to the urge to do nothing, especially after 2 1/2 hours of hiking!
Yesterday we did little lounging and lots of hiking. We went to the Bosque Estatal de Guanica, the bio reserve about 15 minutes away for a few hikes. I love when a hike gives you a view as a reward. We first took the hour long hike to Mirador El Vigia, which took us along the beautiful wooded forest with an eclectic mix of trees. We could hear the geikos scurrying in the undergrowth as we walked, which kept us laughing at their startled behavior. The butterflies were everywhere, of all colors, and they never stood still long enough for us to capture them on film. Birds flew around and hawks above us. It was a hot day, but the breeze kept us cool. Then, we were at the Mirador and what a view. Nothing but hills covered in forests and a cloud dappled blue sky.
We walked back via the Camino Las Granadas, which gave us a nice path but no new view. Back at the car park, we strolled to the balcony with the ocean view. The turquoise seemed to call us, so off we drove to the seaside path. We traversed down a windy beach road that had us passing beach after beach, families and couples and school kids all out for the afternoon. We parked and strolled along the path to the mangroves. It was a beautiful stroll along the water, and we stopped again and again to take photos of the water, the vegetation, and the shore. Soon our stomachs told us that it was time to turn back. We never made it to the mangroves, but it was a beautiful hour long walk.
Back at the house, it was a late lunch full of good food and a little time for relaxation before jetting out to drive to see the sunset. If we would have listened to ourselves, we would have stayed here and rested. Alas, hindsight.
We drove the hour to Boqueron, watching the sun get lower and lower. The road took us through Lajas, causing us to miss the poorly posted turn. We traveled through town and country roads, arriving just as the sun was setting. I hurried the beach guard along, assuring him that I was happy to pay him $4.86 to park but could he please hurry up. It was one of my less calm moments! So, in we drove and instead of just paring and hopping out to catch it, I drove in search of the spot that seemed right, only to find ourselves at a dead end in an inlet where we couldn't see the sun setting. So, after a few "at least I'll get a shot or two of the sky" photos, we hopped in the car and drove the hour back home.
We settled into our exhausted bodies, ate dinner, and crashed early. For me, the day ended on the futon under the fan, yawning to Todd on the phone, and letting an Adam Sandler movie put me to sleep. Vacation, sometimes you need to give in to the urge to do nothing, especially after 2 1/2 hours of hiking!
Tuesday, December 17, 2013
First Day Calm and Museum Surprises
It's been awhile since I've taken the kind of vacation where you take each day as it comes. No plans, just a vague list of try-to-dos. Yesterday was that kind of day.
After a morning of enjoying the view from the porch, a little morning nap to the sound of the waves and the merengue music, and a hearty lunch, we took a stroll down to the beach. Families lounged on the beach and in the not too cold water. It's a small little local beach, and I imagine we'll be back often.
We then decided to go do something, and of all our options, the Museo del Arte in Ponce won out. So we packed up and took the drive west. It was a beautiful day with only a few clouds, and we were able to see all that we missed the night before. Beautiful forest covered hills with the mountains in the distance. The sea to our right, sparkling in the afternoon sun.
The guidebooks all say the museum has a superb collection, including some Pre-Raphaelites, but I wasn't expecting the many surprises I found. We first did the Puerto Rican art exhibit which was extensive and eclectic-from painters to printmakers to photographers, it told a fascinating story of the island's history and art. After an hour in that exhibit, it was time to see the Pre-Raphaelites. The other main exhibit was one on British art, and in there was a wealth of P-R that simply took my breath away. Leighton, Rossetti, Morris, and so many glorious Burne-Jones paintings and sketches. I was giddy as I stood in front of Leighton's 'Flaming June' but I was emotional in front of Burne-Jones's 'The Sleep of King Arthur in Avalon.' This immense floor-ceiling-wall-to-wall painting took my breathe away. To find such a masterpiece here was a gift, and I simply circled the room and tried not to cry. You can bet I marched right to the giftshop and bought quite a bit.
All of these works belong to the museum, and I urge all of you to visit this museum when you come to the island. It's a gorgeous building. While the second floor permanent collection didn't wow me (I've seen enough Flemish, Dutch, and Christian themed works to last me a long time), and I never even made it to the contemporary wing, I left speechless. The drive back home with he purple tinted mountain horizon seemed an appropriate end to the day.
After a better sleep, despite a cat fight outside our bedroom window, a storm in the night, and a mosquito that kept looking near my ear, I am eager to get out In the day. Our sky is gray today but I'm sure it will pass soon enough. With no set plan, all good things are possible.
After a morning of enjoying the view from the porch, a little morning nap to the sound of the waves and the merengue music, and a hearty lunch, we took a stroll down to the beach. Families lounged on the beach and in the not too cold water. It's a small little local beach, and I imagine we'll be back often.
We then decided to go do something, and of all our options, the Museo del Arte in Ponce won out. So we packed up and took the drive west. It was a beautiful day with only a few clouds, and we were able to see all that we missed the night before. Beautiful forest covered hills with the mountains in the distance. The sea to our right, sparkling in the afternoon sun.
The guidebooks all say the museum has a superb collection, including some Pre-Raphaelites, but I wasn't expecting the many surprises I found. We first did the Puerto Rican art exhibit which was extensive and eclectic-from painters to printmakers to photographers, it told a fascinating story of the island's history and art. After an hour in that exhibit, it was time to see the Pre-Raphaelites. The other main exhibit was one on British art, and in there was a wealth of P-R that simply took my breath away. Leighton, Rossetti, Morris, and so many glorious Burne-Jones paintings and sketches. I was giddy as I stood in front of Leighton's 'Flaming June' but I was emotional in front of Burne-Jones's 'The Sleep of King Arthur in Avalon.' This immense floor-ceiling-wall-to-wall painting took my breathe away. To find such a masterpiece here was a gift, and I simply circled the room and tried not to cry. You can bet I marched right to the giftshop and bought quite a bit.
All of these works belong to the museum, and I urge all of you to visit this museum when you come to the island. It's a gorgeous building. While the second floor permanent collection didn't wow me (I've seen enough Flemish, Dutch, and Christian themed works to last me a long time), and I never even made it to the contemporary wing, I left speechless. The drive back home with he purple tinted mountain horizon seemed an appropriate end to the day.
After a better sleep, despite a cat fight outside our bedroom window, a storm in the night, and a mosquito that kept looking near my ear, I am eager to get out In the day. Our sky is gray today but I'm sure it will pass soon enough. With no set plan, all good things are possible.
Monday, December 16, 2013
Everything Looks Different in the Morning
One forgets how initially stressful driving in a different place can be, especially in the dark. We landed later than expected, so by the time we got our rental car and headed on the road, the sun was beginning to set. We made it through the highways of San Juan and on to the main highway that would take us south just in time to catch the glimpse of mountains on the horizon.
An hour and a half later, we exited the main highway and began weaving our way through the coastal towns of Guanica, Ensenada, and finally Playa Santa. The directions were slightly vague (a few steps really meant a few minutes), but we called her and she guided us through the unexplained 10 minute drive through the windy, tree lined roads that led us to our beach house.
We could hear the waves and the crickets, but everything as shrouded in dark. After a difficult sleep in the heat and with an air conditioner that sounds like heavy machinery, we woke up to the sun rising over the bay. Our sweet little porch is lined with flowers and palms, and the geikos and birds were out to meet us. I could stare out at the bay and find my calm space where I could see the beauty around me and revel in our good sense to stay off the beaten path.
We've visited the Econo grocery store and stocked up on provisions, so we can sit back and enjoy the beach... Once it decides to stop its little drizzle.
An hour and a half later, we exited the main highway and began weaving our way through the coastal towns of Guanica, Ensenada, and finally Playa Santa. The directions were slightly vague (a few steps really meant a few minutes), but we called her and she guided us through the unexplained 10 minute drive through the windy, tree lined roads that led us to our beach house.
We could hear the waves and the crickets, but everything as shrouded in dark. After a difficult sleep in the heat and with an air conditioner that sounds like heavy machinery, we woke up to the sun rising over the bay. Our sweet little porch is lined with flowers and palms, and the geikos and birds were out to meet us. I could stare out at the bay and find my calm space where I could see the beauty around me and revel in our good sense to stay off the beaten path.
We've visited the Econo grocery store and stocked up on provisions, so we can sit back and enjoy the beach... Once it decides to stop its little drizzle.
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