Off to Edinburgh and the Tattoo

Day 6: Highlands to Edinburgh 

Up early to pack, clean up, and then head down to Glasgow. It was a pretty day and a mostly smooth, fast, ride. Claire did all the driving, and she bore the brunt of the changing weather the last few days. The car was packed full, but we fit! 

As we meandered our way back south, we watched the different lochs and mountains pass, urging me to come back and see more. I enjoyed every minute of the last few days with Claire and Marie. We know each other so well that we can just slide right into a rhythm. It’s a blessing and a curse of travel, not being near the friends you love. 

They dropped us off at Glasgow Central, quick hugs around amidst the city traffic, and we were off in different directions. Todd and I scoped out our train, bought and ate sandwiches, then off to Edinburgh. 

Having successfully conquered the uber app in Glasgow, I ordered one in Edinburgh to take us to our Airbnb. Such a cute little place, a very urban and efficient space. It has almost everything we need, including a washing machine (which is being used as I type)! It’ll be a perfect place to hunker down the next few days. 

We then went out to meet Dad and Margaret for dinner. They’d found a restaurant near the castle, Vittoria, and we made our way there. As expected, the city is hopping with festival goers of all types. Our uber couldn’t quite make it there with all the festival barricades, so we walked the last block. 

How wonderful and strange to see them waiting for us outside a restaurant in Edinburgh! They’d had a full day already with a walking tour and a museum, and they had lots of fun facts to share with us. After an amazing dinner (stuffed eggplant for me, seafood ravioli for them), we meandered towards the Royal Mile and the castle. Dad had a few Harry Potter tour places to show us, including a cafe where JK Rowling spent a lot of time writing and a Harry Potter themed store. We might have to go back to both! 

Out on the Royal Mile, the place was abuzz! The doors had opened for the Tattoo seating, and the queue was down the road. I picked up our programs and joined the queue. It moved quickly, and soon we were in the grounds and making our way up, up, up the stands. Another fun fact from their earlier tour was that the stands take a month to put up and less than two weeks to take down. The Tattoo runs for about three weeks with nightly performances. In order to maintain their World Heritage status, the stands can’t be permanent. Quite frankly, they’d be an eyesore if they stayed up! 

I’ve wanted to attend the Tattoo since I first learned about it 25 years ago. As soon as I bought the flights, I booked the Tattoo tickets. They sell out early, and I knew I’d be disappointed to miss it. It was a fabulous spectacle of music and country pride, with performances from all over the world. This year’s theme was Kaleidoscope, and each group was given a color from Newton’s spectrum, which also honored the Scottish inventor of the Kaleidoscope. 

It started with them honoring all colors of the spectrum and the masses pipes and drums. Then each group performed,  highlighting their specific color and their country. Countries came out in this order: Nigeria, Germany, Trinidad and Tobago, France, New Zealand Drill, China, Shetland, Tattoo Dance Company, New Zealand army band, Military Bands of Scotland and Ireland, and then the various finales. I’d say Trinidad and Tobago, New Zealand, the dancers, and the pipe bands were my favorite. 

Each performance had their own narrative, and they projected different images on the castle. The Germans were the most funny because they had dancing beer steins! The castle also had different colors projected on it, including the various flag colors. They set off the cannons a few times and then there were fireworks. 

The finales were many, including the entire ensemble doing the theme from “The Greatest Showman” and then the pipes and drums marching out. The lone piper played from the top of the castle, and the final drummer played the “Turn off the Taps.” What a glorious evening! 

We waited for our turn to exit the stands and made our way down the mile with thousands of others. It was a bit chill now that we were moving. It had misted a bit through the performances, but we didn’t get too wet. The streets were mostly dry, and we went our different ways back to our accommodation. It was a pretty night, and the music hummed in our bodies for another few hours. 

Trying to Outwalk the Rain

Day 5

We knew today’s timing would be tricky. A big storm was impending at 1pm, so we’d have to get out early to make something off the day. By 11am, we were waiting at the Corran ferry. 

It was a chill breeze off the Loch, and we held on to our hats as we crossed. It’s a quick trip, but you’re surrounded by the pretty water, the hills/mountains, and casual clouds. We made note of the inn at the ferry dock in case we needed to take cover on our way back. 

Our mission was to take the casual walk to the waterfall. The directions were to follow the road to the right, and pick up the trail after the church. Pretty little houses, some with abundant gardens and others plain, and we came across the shaggy-haired-I-can’t-see-through-all-this-hair “Highland Coo.” He cooperated and posed for Claire, but he didn’t care about giving me the money shot. 

The walk started off as a pretty one on a well worn forest track. The trees were covered in lichen, moss, and fungi. It smelled so good, and there was a breeze. 

Then the trail began to climb and wind. Having lived in Boulder, CO in the mountains, Todd’s “storm’s a comin” senses were going off. He decided to take the pack and head back to the inn. He didn’t want to get caught in the rain, and we weren’t ready to give up on the waterfall. If there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s we can both take care of ourselves the way we need to. 

Claire, Marie, and I carried on for another half hour. The path got a bit muddier and then quite steep. We knew we were on the right path, but we had no idea how close we were to the falls. Claire and I decided to go up the steep road for ten minutes to see what we could find. We got to a really muddy track and turned back. We saw the pretty falls through the trees and took a few shots. 

We meandered back (it’s always so much faster going back!) and made it to the inn just as it started to sprinkle. Todd had enjoyed some lentil soup, and we were all in good spirits. The rain came down harder by the time we got off the ferry and walked home. 

We made some tea and enjoyed the comfort of our cabin for the rest of the afternoon as the rain kept coming down. We did find a nice looking restaurant for dinner, so we went out to the Clachaig Hotel. 

The hotel couldn’t be better situated. Sitting at the foot of the mountains, it has stunning views up. The sky had begun to clear, and you could see all the waterfalls cascading down. Having not found our waterfall earlier, we were spoiled for choice this time. This place reminded me why I’d wanted to come to the Highlands for so long. I’d seen the beautiful photographs, but nothing does it justice quite like standing in the middle of it.

We were surrounded by serious hikers with their maps and packs, planning out their next day’s tramping. We had another great meal all around, and I had my first taste of vegan haggis: grains, onion, and spices - pretty tasty!

On the Road to Onich & Glenfinnan

Day 3

We woke up in Glasgow Monday morning and prepared for the next leg of our journey. We meandered over to Glasgow Central where we caught the train to Fort Matilda. We passed along the River Clyde, noticing all the silt buildup we learned about on the bus trip yesterday. 

Claire and Marie picked us up at the train station, and we exchanged long hugs all around. It’s been three years since we saw them on our honeymoon. This time is without Gerry, Claire’s dad, which is bittersweet. They drove us down the road to have tea with Gerry’s Cousin Anne, who they’d been visiting. I love sitting with family, listening to their shared stories, learning more about them, and drinking tea. It’s a particularly wonderful tradition here. 

We then began our trek up to Onich, with a lovely drive along Loch Lomond and the Trossachs. The rain came and went, came and went, and the views were gorgeous. We listened to the “Bonnie Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond” to set the mood. We stopped for a few pretty viewpoints along the way at Firkin Point and Inveruglas. 

The highlands are just as pretty as you expect. The different shades of green and brown, the waterfalls making their way down, the ever-changing sky altering the landscape. We found the Green Welly Stop for some lunch, which for three of us was soup and for Todd his first sausage roll. We stopped by the Glencoe Visitor Center to pick up some material, but there wasn’t much there. There was a pretty view and a cafe, so we had a much needed cup of tea with dessert. There was even vegan banana bread (times are changing things in my favor).   

We arrived at our cabin at Onich, situated ourselves, then went grocery shopping. After five hours in the car, we decided to eat in, so like all the other locals and travelers, we stocked up. Todd and I feasted on pasta and vegan sausages, Claire and Marie on lasagna and salad, all of us finishing off with the gorgeous vegan brownies Claire made in advance. We sat and chatted, enjoying just sitting together in our cozy cabin. 

Day 4

After a good long sleep, we had a leisurely morning and breakfast. We planned to take the ferry to Corran and have a good walk, but the rain was coming down and there were no spots in the car park. No problem! Up to Glenfinnan!

Glenfinnan has two reasons to visit: the monument and the viaduct. It rained off and on all day, but we had some lunch and delicious flapjacks made by Marie and lingered in the gift shop-where you could get all the Harry Potter and Outlander merchandise you needed! 

We first walked up the path to the viaduct.  This is the viaduct where the Jacobite steam train, also known as the “Harry Potter train,” travels across from Fort William to Mallaig. The train was sold out, so we just enjoyed Glenfinnan. It’s a beautiful stone viaduct and lots of photos were taken, including me in my Harry Potter viaduct themed T-shirt. (Thanks, Kate!)

We made it down just as it started to rain, and we ducked back into the gift shop. Ten minutes later we were making our way to the monument. It stands as a tribute to Bonnie Prince Charlie and the end of the Jacobite rising. The monument sits on the shores of Loch Shiel, and what a pretty view. We watched an adorable dog bounce around in the water, and we admired the next storm coming over the mountains, as we bathed in the temporary sun. 

We took a pretty stroll along the dragonfly path through the forest and along the loch. The views were so pretty, despite the impending storm we got caught in. We donned our rain jackets and carried on. By the time we made it back to the visitor center, the rain stopped. 

We walked to the beautifully situated Catholic Church on the way to the car. Another pretty spot for contemplation, as we took in the views. We heard the steam trains come through the station, but we were happily busy at the church. Claire took a great photo off a postcard, proving we saw the train! Then a drive back to our cabin for a cup of tea and chill before dinner. The sun just taunted us as we lounged, mocking us for missing a dry moment!

Tonight we went to the Loch Leven Hotel in Ballachulish for dinner with a view. The sky was a dazzling blue when we arrived, which promised to be a great sunset. It was a wonderful dinner for everyone: vegan gnocchi and sweet potato soup for me, venison for the first time for Todd, lemon sole for Marie, and fish and chips for Claire. We figured we’d just make sunset, but the clouds had rolled in. We stopped by the ferry pier from the morning to try to catch it, but the sky only went varying shades of pretty blue to grey. 

Back at our cabin for dessert and a film. Marie told us about this film set in Edinburgh, which we watched, “Sunshine on Leith.” It was a perfect ending to a wonderful day. 

Glasgow: A Fast Affair

Day 1:

Taking an Uber to the airport was such a nice change, and security was a breeze. However, our flight was delayed because the incoming plane was delayed. But as it arrived, the British Airways staff announced that we might want to watch out the windows as it landed. Wow, the airbus A380 is a behemoth two floor plane. Don’t let that fool you; leg room was tight. We were told at check-in that we could upgrade to 7 more inches of leg room for $380/person. This would have been more expensive than one of our round trip flights, so no (I got great prices on our tickets). 

Once we were on the plane, the delays continued. We taxid on the runway for an hour, not that we noticed as we both dozed and jerked away, dozed and jerked awake. It was clear once we were in the air that we would miss our connection. And miss it we did. The only consolation was that they rebooked us on an evening flight and we got some money towards lunch. After three hours waiting, I tried to talk us into the member lounge (I’m a member but not that good of a member). Instead we received some more food money, which mostly covered dinner. 

Side note: It’s painful to be in Heathrow and not going into London. It’s against the natural order of my travel belief system. 

Our flight to Glasgow went well, and we landed without a hitch. As we walked through the airport, we passed Gemma Whelan (GoT’s Yara Greyjoy) walking to her flight. (After I stalked her on Instagram, I discovered she was at the Glasgow Comic Con.) The hitch arrived when Todd’s luggage appeared and mine didn’t. It turned out my luggage never left Chicago, but it’s on its way now. 

I pulled up my uber app, and I thought it was freaking out on me. Turns out it wasn’t, and I am just a newbie who doesn’t understand this app yet... We hopped in a cab to the hotel, where we were greeted with “you must be Maureen.” Last person to check in, but it still made me feel good! Our room was comfy and new and just what our weary bodies needed. 

It was already 9pm, so we just stayed in, snacking and chilling out. We found a Billy Connolly special, “Made in Scotland,” on BBC Scotland. What a hilarious and interesting show. Jetlag kicked in half way through and we crashed out. 

Day 2

Up at 6am but decent sleep and energy. Glad for my extra set of clothes in my backpack (that’s what 25 years of international travel will get you). Our hotel has a great breakfast, so beans on toast and soy milk for cereal. Happy Moe! Todd even had his first taste of haggis, though I’m sure he could get better. We’re now sipping espresso, Todd’s reading, I’m map hunting and typing this, as the morning rain falls. Vacation, finally...

Our plan is a simple one today. Hop on-hop off bus, Willow tea rooms for lunch, and maybe a museum if our energy holds up. 

Glasgow is a manageable city by foot so far. Sunday morning, and the streets were quiet with only tourists seeming to be out.  We walked down to the first stop for the bus and hopped on. It was starting to rain, so we had good timing. We perched in the covered part of the upper deck and listened to the audio guide as the bus meandered along. It’s been about 20 years since I did something like this, and it was much appreciated today. We had energy but it wasn’t zapped too much. 

What a pretty town. I love the soot stained buildings and the eclectic mix of architecture. Too many stories to recount from that audio guide, but a few facts/stories stand out: the 500 year old university; the suffragette oak; the last pub in Glasgow to admit women, Tennent’s pub, where women chained themselves up inside and ever since the manager of the pub has always been a woman. 

After an hour and a half on the bus, we hopped off near the Macintosh at the Willow tea rooms. These tea rooms were where women could come unchaperoned without causing social scandal. I had reserved seats in the upstairs Salon de Luxe, which was designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh.

What a beautiful salon. They might not have been the most comfortable chairs ever, but everything about it was pretty: the purple stained glass mirrored walls, the glass chandeliers, the Table settings, the etched water glasses. And this was before the tea trays came out. A full vegan tea tray for me, and a non-vegan one for Todd. Everything was so rich and delicious. I’d say the lemon cake and the scones were my favorite items. Todd was wowed by his salmon sandwich and his lavender melt-in-your-mouth macaroon. 

The morning espresso and lunchtime tea could not overcome the soporific effects of that delicious lunch. Thankfully, the hotel was only a block away, so we could head back and literally crash out. 

After a brief respite, we ubered over to Kelvingrove Museum since we had two hours before it closed. As is often the case in the UK, the museum was free (huzzah! More money for food!), so we didn’t have to fret about getting our money’s worth. When we walked in, an organist was playing the massive organ. The highlight was Scottish art, particularly Mackintosh and the “Glasgow Four.” So many new artists we didn’t know who were clearly in conversation with artists we do know (Monet, Seurat, Sargent). Our guidebook said the Dali was on loan until 2020, but imagine our delight when it was there! (You were wrong, Rick Steves!)

After two hours of art room roaming, we were kicked out with everyone else. We’d missed a rain shower while in the museum, so a pretty blue sky with drifting clouds greeted us. Snapped some photos then hopped on the bus. Todd started talking about food as we buzzed along (there’s Indian! Spanish! Italian!), so we jumped off near our hotel for a walk down the shopping street near our hotel (not so interesting). Back to the hotel to drop off my camera, see if my bag had arrived (nope), and choose a dinner spot. 

With both of us searching for an open (Sunday night), vegan friendly place (there are tons), Todd found Stereo, a pure vegan restaurant. Man, oh man. Bruschetta, Saag Paneer (tofu not cheese), and a Seitan burger. So many delicious flavors. I told Todd we need a meal strategy when we get to Edinburgh; if the vegan options continue to be this good, I’m going to need smaller meals! 

Happy news at the hotel! Bag has arrived but with a bent handle. I was able to straighten it out a bit, but still have to let them know. Just happy it’s here before heading off to the north tomorrow. 

Glasgow has been a 24 hour delight! We look forward to seeing it again someday!